Updated June 10, 2026
Finishes fall into two broad families. Penetrating finishes such as oils soak into the fibres and leave little surface film. Film finishes such as shellac, lacquer, and varnish build a protective layer on top. Penetrating finishes are easy to repair and forgiving to apply; film finishes resist water and wear better but are harder to patch invisibly.
Surface preparation
Most finishing failures are really preparation failures. The surface you put a finish on is the surface you will see through it.
- Sand or plane progressively to a consistent surface, removing earlier scratches at each step.
- Remove all dust with a vacuum and a lightly dampened cloth.
- On porous woods, consider raising the grain with a damp cloth, letting it dry, and knocking back the raised fibres before the first coat.
Comparing common finishes
| Finish | Protection | Repairability | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Drying oil | Moderate | Very easy | Furniture, surfaces handled often |
| Wax | Low | Easy | Low-wear decorative pieces |
| Shellac | Moderate | Good | Interior furniture, sealing coats |
| Film varnish | High | Harder | Tabletops, high-wear surfaces |
Curing in a dry winter shop
Heated indoor air in winter is often very dry, and cold can slow the cure of some finishes. Where possible, apply and cure finishes at a stable room temperature rather than in an unheated garage. Follow the temperature and ventilation directions printed on the product you are using.
A simple, reliable routine
For a first project, a wipe-on approach is hard to get wrong: apply a thin coat, let it sit briefly, wipe off the excess thoroughly, and let it cure before the next coat. Thin coats wiped clean avoid the drips, ridges, and tacky patches that come from flooding a surface.
References
- Wikipedia — Wood finishing, for finish categories and terminology.
- Canadian Conservation Institute, on coatings and the care of wooden objects.